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BIO-MATERIALS

5 weeks long project that covers research & experimentation on making biomaterials (bioplastic & bioleather). 

What

is biomaterials?

Biomaterials are substances derived from natural sources that are used to create products or structures in various industries, including fashion. These materials can be derived from plants, animals, or microorganisms, and are often biodegradable and sustainable. Examples include bioplastics made from starch or cellulose and bioleathers created from agricultural waste or fungal mycelium. The use of biomaterials is gaining traction due to their potential to reduce environmental impact, minimize waste, and offer renewable alternatives to traditional synthetic materials, which are often derived from non-renewable petroleum sources and can have significant ecological footprints (Cohen, 2020).

Why

biomaterials?

The shift towards biomaterials in the textile industry is seen as a crucial step towards sustainability. Biomaterials offer several advantages, such as reducing reliance on fossil fuels, decreasing greenhouse gas emissions, and promoting circular economy practices where materials are continuously reused and recycled. As the fashion industry grapples with its environmental impact, biomaterials represent a promising solution for creating eco-friendly textiles. Innovations in biomaterial technology are continually improving their performance and scalability, making them increasingly viable for mainstream textile production. According to research, the integration of biomaterials in fashion can significantly mitigate environmental degradation and contribute to a more sustainable future for the industry (Huang, 2021).

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Pink Matrix by Mata Durikovic

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Plasticity by Amy Cottrell

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NOT X LIENX

As a fashion designer with a deep interest in textiles, I am eager to explore the creation of biomaterials myself to gain a hands-on understanding of their properties and potential. This experimentation will not only enhance my knowledge of sustainable practices but also inspire innovative designs that align with eco-friendly principles.

***Initial Trial on Bioplastic***

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Source: Recipes for Material Activism by Dr. Miriam Ribul

Dr. Miriam is a senior researcher of Materials Circularity in the Materials Science Research Centre (MSRC). Previously she was the theme lead in Sustainable Future Materials of the Burberry Materials Futures Research Group, the first lab of the Materials Science Research Centre (2018-2020). Miriam holds a PhD from the University of the Arts London (Centre for Circular Design) with the London Doctoral Design Centre, an MA in Material Futures (Central Saint Martins) and a BA in Textile Design.

1.

Follow the recipe and mix all the doses in a pan

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After 2 weeks...

2.

Set the pan in low heat and slowly stir the substance until it become like a thick paste & put in the mould to dry for 3 days.

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tried using silicone coaster at home that has some prints to mould the substance.

The overall process is quite fast to make under 30 minutes but during drying period, the smell from the vinegar is strong and unpleasant, although after 2 weeks the smell fade away. The result for the flat piece has some lumps instead of a smooth surface due to too high of heat during mixing in the pan. The piece itself is quite interesting as it can be folded but it's quite unstable as it may break easily. The print piece came out nice although still it could break easily, it form a very nice print but I find it difficult as the layer is too thin, it doesn't come out together nicely.

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Overall, its an interesting process and based on the first try I could not say this piece could be worn on the body as it is quite unstable, further developments of trial and error is needed to be able to perform well as a versatile textile.

The first experiment lead me thinking of alternative ways to create bioplastic instead of the normal ingredients, how about using waste as one of the components to be able to generate waste and incorporate it as well. Furthermore, the instability and rubber-feel of the first sample lead me thinking to what other properties can be included to give it more structure for performance. Thus, I did some more research on other recipes and try out a few more. 

#1 Bioplastic: Orange Peel Waste

Source: Fab Lab Barcelona

Source: Fab Lab Barcelona

Fab Lab Barcelona is a pioneering digital fabrication laboratory based in the city of Barcelona, Spain, dedicated to fostering innovation, sustainability, and education through hands-on experimentation and interdisciplinary collaboration.

Why Orange Peel?

Orange peels, often discarded as waste, can be transformed into valuable textiles through innovative processes. Rich in cellulose, orange peels can be broken down and spun into fibers, creating sustainable fabrics. This not only reduces food waste but also offers an eco-friendly alternative to conventional textiles. In fact, the Orange Fiber company, which produces fabric from citrus byproducts, highlights that millions of tons of citrus waste are generated annually, presenting a significant opportunity for sustainable material production (Orange Fiber, 2023). This approach aligns with circular economy principles, turning waste into a resource and minimizing environmental impact.

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Orange Peel Waste, Source: Garden Collage

How?

Prepare 1 orange, cut into half and using orange squeezer, I squeezed the juice out to be enjoy, while the remaining orange peel will be generated to be textile

1.

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Cut the orange further to half to make it smaller and rub inner and outer side of the orange with baking soda

2.

Baking soda is used to cleanse the germs of the orange peel to be safe to use

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3.

Dehyrdrate the orange peel using home airfryer in 80 degrees for 30 minutes to ensure its dried

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4.

Using a grater, I grate all the orange peel into smaller and finer substance

In the video they use machine so it's faster. Grating it manually is more time consuming.

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Mix and blend all together:

​

1 grated orange

1 tbsp of sodium alginate

1 tbsp of calcium chloride

100 ml of glycerine

170 ml of water

5.

6.

Pour the blended liquid into a tray or mould, cover the lid and put it in the freezer for an hour.

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After freezing, add some wool fiber evenly to give the textile some structure and durability to glue together the susbtance.

7.

leave to dry for 3 weeks until it is form

#2 Bioplastic: Used Coffee Grounds

Why coffee powder?

Expired coffee grounds are an excellent resource for creating bioplastic, providing an innovative solution to reduce waste. Coffee grounds are rich in cellulose, a key component for bioplastic production. By utilizing this abundant waste material, we can divert significant amounts of organic waste from landfills and transform it into biodegradable plastic. According to NewScientist, each year, approximately 18 million tonnes of used coffee grounds are generated worldwide, with the majority being disposed of in landfills. As these grounds decompose, they emit methane, a greenhouse gas that has a global warming potential 21 times greater than carbon dioxide. By using used/expired coffee grounds can support a circular economy, turning waste into valuable products and reducing environmental impact.

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Recycled Coffee Grounds, Source: New Scientist

1.

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Mix and blend all together:

​

20 g of used coffee ground

1/2 tbsp of sodium alginate

1/2 tbsp of calcium chloride

50 ml of glycerine

85 ml of water

2.

Pour the blended liquid into a tray or mould, cover the lid and put it in the freezer for an hour.

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After freezing, add some fiber evenly to give the textile some structure and durability to glue together the susbtance.

3.

leave to dry for 3 weeks until it is form

Shedded Dog Fur?

In this experiment, I chose to use shed dog fur as a replacement for traditional wool fiber. The inspiration for this idea came during a visit to a friend's home, where dog fur was abundantly scattered. Recognizing that shed dog fur is a form of waste that is cellulosic in nature, I considered its potential to serve as a sustainable alternative to conventional wool fiber. This experiment aims to compare the properties and performance of textiles made from normal wool fiber with those made from dog fur. Addressing potential hygiene concerns, the dog fur was thoroughly cleaned and ensured to be free from any skin infections prior to use. Notably, the brand Knit Your Dog has successfully utilized dog fur to create unique yarns and textiles, demonstrating the viability of this approach (Knit Your Dog, 2023).

References

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